Fabric, 1.5m (150cm)Button
Lightweight wovens without drape, such as cottons or broderie anglaise
Front bodice: cut one on the foldBack bodice: cut one pairSleeve: cut one pairCuff: cut one pairFront and back skirt: cut two on the foldNeck binding: cut one on the bias1.5cm seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Download the pattern, then print and follow the cutting guide. Stitch darts into the front bodice piece, from the side edge of the darts to the points marked on the pattern. Press the darts down towards the waistline. Neaten the side edges of the front and back bodice, across the shoulders of both the front and back bodice, and the centre-back edges of the back bodice.
Position the front and back bodice pieces together, right sides facing, then match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams together. Press the seams allowances open. Match and sew the centre-back seam from the base of the bodice to the notch marked on the pattern. Press the seam allowance open and continue to press in the seam allowance above the end of the stitching up into the neckline.
Fold and press in 1cm on either side of all the bias strips or use a bias binding folder to complete this process. Open one side of the neck binding bias strip and position it around the neckline on the wrong side. Position the binding in line with the neatened centre-back edges. Pin in place and stitch along the fold line pressed into the bias strip.
Fold the bias strip over onto the right side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line, pin and edgestitch in place sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding. Re-fold the seam allowance at the top of the opening, then sew down and up to secure the seam allowance of the opening. Match, pin and stitch the back and front bodice side edges together. Press the seam allowance open.
Neaten the side edges of both sleeves. Adjust the stitch length to number five and stitch two rows of gathering stitches, within the seam allowance, around the head of the sleeves, starting and finishing as indicated on the pattern piece. Make two rows of gathering stitches across the base of each sleeve, between the marked notches. Pull up the gathering stitches across the base of the sleeve until they measure the length of the cuffs.
Press a 1.5cm seam allowance in on one of the long edges on both cuffs. Position and stitch the remaining long edge of the cuffs to the right side of the gathered sleeve bases. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing, then continue to stitch into the sleeve cuffs. Press the seams open and turn the sleeves to the right side. Re-fold the pressed seam allowance and position the folded edge over the gathered stitching line and edgestitch in place on the wrong sides of the sleeves, sandwiching the raw edges inside the cuffs.
Pull the gathering threads up in the head of the sleeve, then place the sleeves, matching the notches, into the armholes of the bodice. Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeves together. Distribute the gathers evenly and when you are happy, pin and sew the sleeves in place. Neaten around the seam allowances of the armholes.
Neaten the side edges of the front and back skirt pieces. Lay the front skirt over the back piece, match the side seams together and stitch. Press the seam open. At the waistline of the skirt, make two lines of gathering stitches right around the waistline within the seam allowance. Pull the threads up and evenly distribute the gathers until the waistline measures the same as the base of the bodice.
Match the side seams of the bodice and the skirt together, pin and stitch in place. Neaten the seam allowance together. Neaten the base of the skirt, then press up the 2.5cm hem and edgestitch the hem in place. Make a hand stitched thread loop on the left-hand top edge of the neck opening and stitch a button to the right-hand side.